When visitors come to Texas, there are two kinds of food they will immediately associate with the state – barbecue and Tex-Mex. Of course, you can enjoy all other types of cuisine, but if you come here and don’t try these foods, you’re missing out on their quintessential cuisine and a point of pride.

I must admit that I am not a devout barbecue aficionado, but I do appreciate it when it’s done well. And in the places where I’ve tried here, it’s indeed been just that.  Lately, I’ve progressed beyond turkey and chicken and chosen the more traditional pork. But in Texas, you must have beef brisket – otherwise, you’ll have to leave the state (not really). As for Tex-Mex, I’m always open to trying any Mexican cuisine, even this slightly Americanized version.

Having visited Texas nearly a dozen times, I’ve enjoyed my share of both, and on my recent trip to San Antonio, I naturally dined on tender, slow-cooked brisket and grilled chicken fajitas accompanied by homemade flour tortillas. But other places were equally delectable, thanks to the city’s tourism bureau, Visit San Antonio, which arranged our dining venues, as well as the activities I mentioned last week. We also tried a Tuscan steakhouse, wood-fired pizza (that we made ourselves), a Texas bistro with a Creole twist and a traditional Mexican bakery. Since it's also a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, I was expecting some delicious meals.

The Range

During my time in Italy this past March, I noticed plenty of Tuscan steakhouses in Florence. These establishments have impossibly thick cuts of beef displayed in their front-facing refrigerated cases. I was reminded of that when we visited this eatery, owned by the celebrated local chef Jason Dady, and made sure to order something with grilled steak. While it’s not in my nature to order a whole one, I did opt for pan-seared gnocchi with vegetables and a petite filet mignon. True to my expectations, it was a perfectly grilled cut that was so tender, I didn’t need a knife to cut it.  Some other standout menu items included burrata di bufala and caprese, as well as caramel apple cheesecake and Nutella Mississippi mud pie.

Fife and Farro

Making a pizza from scratch may seem simple, but it can be deceiving. That’s especially true with the crust, which needs to be handled well (and no, it doesn’t need to be tossed in the air). Our group did just that at this open restaurant in the Pullman Market.  After starting with Caesar salad and beef carpaccio (which was surprisingly irresistible), the chefs took us into the kitchen, where we shaped our pizza dough, added our desired toppings, and waited a mere seven minutes in the wood-fired oven for the finished product. Given it was made by a non-professional (me), it was a darn good pie

Boudro’s

This extensive River Walk restaurant bills itself as a “Texas bistro,” and it’s been one of the longest-established eateries in the area. Since nearly every table was filled in each of its several dining rooms, it’s easy to see how San Antonians love it. With a healthy dose of Cajun and Creole offerings – which means plenty of seafood – I would almost say the Boudro’s could be at home in Louisiana. But in a nod to its roots, there are also grilled steaks and meats, and a tableside guacamole that’s so irresistible, it may prevent you from enjoying your ordered entrée. But if you order the blackened fish and prickly pear margarita, as I did, or something similar, you’ll find a way.

Pinkerton’s

Of all the places we dined at in San Antonio, I was probably the least impressed with this uber-popular barbecue establishment, whose vast interior resembled a casual backyard party. However, that was perhaps due to what I ordered. The sliced brisket sandwich was quite dry, but it became edible with the addition of copious amounts of barbecue sauce.  I probably should have chosen the chopped version, which was more tender and flavorful.  The pulled pork, ribs and sausage were also tasty, as were the sides. Those included coleslaw, potato salad and two that were twists on old favorites: jalapeno cheese rice and rosemary bacon mac and cheese.

Rita’s on the River

Another River Walk institution is this Tex-Mex favorite. I learned that this variation of Mexican food was an adaptation from European immigrants, mostly Germans, who wanted less spicy dishes. One of the modifications was more grilling, and from there came fajitas. That’s precisely what I had (sharing the chicken platter with one of my group mates, since we were still full from the barbecue lunch), as well as a Cadillac margarita, queso, another tableside guacamole and sopapillas. Our servers were knowledgeable and fun, which made the entire meal enjoyable. 

La Panaderia

This four-location family-owned bakery specializes in pan dulce, the Mexican breakfast bread that I’ve always found a bit dry. I was willing to try one here, but I was tempted by the CroLuna, or a tequila tres leches croissant. It turned out to be creamy and flaky, but it noticeably lacked the tequila flavor, which was probably for the best. While our group took orders to go, you can also order items for dining in. Plenty on the menu looked wonderfully hearty, like huevos rancheros, egg sandwiches, avocado toast, tortas, salads and at least two dozen coffee and tea drinks.