You know you’re in a unique part of the country when you hear an airport announcement in French when you were not expecting to. That’s what happened when I attended the International Food and Wine Travel Writers Association’s (IFWTWA) annual conference in Lafayette, Louisiana. This is the heart of Cajun Country, and it’s apparent in the way locals talk, the restaurants and stores, and the ever-present lively music. 

With its history steeped in the Acadians who were forced to leave their homes in maritime Canada and brought to this region of the Deep South, this region has retained much of those long-standing traditions and culture.  That’s why I was surprised and delighted to discover what the state’s third-largest city had to offer. It’s truly different from anywhere else, including New Orleans, and where we just were in the River Parishes. If that’s the heart of being Creole, Lafayette epitomizes the Cajun state of mind.

These activities were courtesy of the team at Lafayette Travel, who also hosted an opening at the University of Louisiana, Lafayette’s alumni center. They did an incredible job of making us feel welcome and bringing some “Laissez les bon temps rouler” (Let the good times roll).

Hilton Garden Inn Cajundome

While this hotel was conventional, it was our base for the accommodations and the IFWTWA conference. Another slight drawback was its location. It was across the street from the Cajundome, which is a massive venue that hosts concerts, programs, and some of the University of Louisiana Lafayette events. But other than that, it wasn’t near anything within walking distance, and we needed to take transportation whenever we headed somewhere.

Having said that, I did enjoy my stay here. My room was spacious and comfortable and had a tub/shower, which is increasingly rare in hotel rooms. The fitness center was well-equipped, featuring my near travel requirement Peloton bike and solid treadmills. Another unique feature was the mini-restaurant. I say “mini” because guests would think it’s simply a breakfast bar, but the hotel serves full meals and beverages, which makes the lack of access to dining places easier to bear.

Festival Acadiens et Creoles

This event has celebrated the region’s primary culture since 2008, although it was decades in the making, with other smaller festivals. Music is a constant presence here, with two stages of live zydeco and Cajun music, and attendants spontaneously dance the two-step at the front. One section highlights primarily local arts and crafts, while another features favorite foods. Throughout the schedule for each day, there are presentations and demonstrations relating to culinary, culture, or history.

My friend and I watched the cooking demonstration from the chef at the restaurant I will mention in the next section. Sullivan Zant, a native of the area, demonstrated cooking crab cakes. Unfortunately, when the time came to sample them, they ran out about five servings before we could try them. Luckily, I ordered this same dish at Zant’s restaurant, which was slightly more elaborate. Although we shared a fantastic crawfish etoufee baked potato for lunch, the most irresistible item I tried was praline-filled beignets. I would have had seconds even if it was not good for my waistline.

Vestal

Nearly all the conference attendees went to this popular downtown restaurant, where we pre-selected the items of our specially designed “new Southern” four-course meal.  We also enjoyed some of their creative cocktails before dinner. Chef Zant and his team cook from an open kitchen, the most prominent feature being the fire pit hearth that creates some of their most outstanding dishes, like roasted half chicken, pork porterhouse, and lasagna. The menu also has a tempting selection of raw seafood and appetizers.

I chose crawfish bisque as my starter. It was a creamy yet briny concoction, imparting just enough bite with jalapeno and tang from lime juice. I then dined on an heirloom tomato salad, which had unexpected sweetness with the inclusion of peaches. My entrée was the crab cakes from the festival, but this version was larger and elaborate, with garam masala, sorrel, and carrot velouté.  Finally, my dessert was donut bread pudding. While it was delicious, it didn’t look that appetizing. It could have been the low light in the restaurant.

Cajun Food Tours

At this point in my trip, I had to admit that I was getting a bit tired of eating Cajun food. I enjoyed plenty of gumbo, jambalaya, and the like, and while it’s tasty, it’s also hearty and rich. I was starting to go without breakfast because I was still full from the night before with these dishes. But only someone like Marie Ducote, an energetic and enthusiastic former educator and the owner and tour guide of this company, could convince me to have more of some local favorites.

The foods we tried started with a shrimp po’boy at Olde Tyme Grocery, which was once just a store but is now also a restaurant. We then moved on to Johnson’s Boucaniere, a butchery that’s famous for its pork and rice sausage, boudin, and to the sports bar Bon Temps Grill, where we enjoyed chicken andouille gumbo. Gator bites and red beans and rice were next at Prejean’s. Finally, we finished with a king cake from Poupart’s Bakery. Unfortunately, nobody got the slice with the baby, so no one was king.

Wild Child Wine Bar

Perhaps the last place I would be in Lafayette was this small downtown wine bar. It obviously wasn’t the wine (which I would gladly partake) but rather what came with it – tinned fish. Ugh. After our original tour at the distillery was cancelled, the tourism bureau offered this as an alternative. All could think of was oily, slippery seafood with a weird texture and an immediate need to wash it down with whatever varietal was served.

But this turned out to be the best and most pleasant surprise, probably because husband and wife owners Katie and Denny Culbert expertly paired the sardines, anchovies, smoked salmon, and other fish with the perfect wines. Most of these were from Spain and Portugal, where this kind of combination is common. I have to admit some of the fish were better than others (smoked mussels and cockles weren’t my favorites), but I’m glad I chose to come here.